糖心Vlog

Plucked: A History of Hair Removal, by Rebecca M. Herzig

There鈥檚 a piggy in the middle of this gripping tale of depilation, finds Emma Rees

Published on
February 5, 2015
Last updated
May 22, 2015

I don鈥檛 think about slaughterhouses much, having been vegetarian my entire adult life. I certainly didn鈥檛 expect to think about them in reviewing a study of the history of hair removal. But the first of many things I learned from Rebecca Herzig鈥檚 wonderful Plucked: A History of Hair Removal was that depilation and meat production, improbable though it sounds, share a hirsute history.

In early 19th-century America and Europe, the industrialisation of meat production necessitated an ever-quicker, better organised transformation of sentient piggy to slab of meat. This streamlining of piggy鈥檚 demise in an era before reliable mechanical refrigeration was financially driven. However, and I confess to this being a problem to which I鈥檇 previously given very little thought, Herzig tells us that 鈥渢o the goal of efficient, uninterrupted disassembly, the task of stripping hair from hides presented a vexing bottleneck鈥.

Noxious depilatory chemicals would prove the most efficient way of 鈥渦nhairing鈥 piggy and her pals, and the manufacture of these unguents boomed in the first few decades of the 19th century. Women鈥檚 toiletry manufacturers were watching these depilatory developments with a keen eye. They saw the opportunity for product diversification, and worked hard to promote as utterly beyond doubt the necessity of eliminating 鈥渁ny hair growth below the scalp line鈥.

But while quicklime and arsenic stripped pig carcasses splendidly, they performed less well in the bathrooms of America. Herzig tells some hair-raising tales of hair-razing gone awry, as caustic chemicals removed users鈥 flesh along with what was, by the early 20th century, being hyped as 鈥渦nwanted鈥 or 鈥渆xcess鈥 hair. Reading Plucked made me remember fondly the first time I read Lawrence Stone鈥檚 The Family, Sex and Marriage in England, 1500-1800. I recalled the Damascene feeling I experienced as an undergraduate; that moment of realising that history could be fun, even salacious, and instantly readable, without any diminishment of its scholarly rigour or value.

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The pressures of hair-free conformity grew as the 20th century progressed. Hairlessness became an emblem not only of femininity but of racial purity, and evolutionary success, too. As the women鈥檚 suffrage movement gained traction, so more and more stories were reported of women whose social participation was stopped in its tracks because they were too ashamed of their facial hair even to leave the house.

The brutal methods of depilation Herzig records are as fascinating as they are horrific. The technique called 鈥減unching鈥, for example, involved 鈥渁 cylindrical knife鈥ammed through the skin around the hair shaft and immediately withdrawn, leaving a severed column of skin containing the hair-root鈥. With her customary dry wit and mastery of understatement, Herzig delivers her own punchline: 鈥淧unching was never a particularly popular method of hair removal.鈥 Descriptions of the horrors that ensued from deploying X-rays to remove hair 鈥 a method in use until the 1940s 鈥 are shared in the same compelling way.

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Herzig unites anthropology, sociology, history and psychology in this gripping study. Although she might have dealt with issues of race in more depth, ultimately Plucked is an important work, not least because it is so very readable. What鈥檚 more, Herzig is angry, and anger is the first step towards social change. 鈥Plucked鈥, she writes, 鈥渋s, first and foremost, a call to remember those excluded others: the staggering volumes of sweat and blood and imagination and fear expended to produce a single hairless chin.鈥

Plucked: A History of Hair Removal

By Rebecca M. Herzig
New York University Press, 280pp, 拢20.99
ISBN 9781479840823 and 830657 (e-book)
Published 9 February 2015

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