All kinds of unexpected research can emerge from the resources of a great library. But I must admit that I鈥檇 never really thought much about the striking ways archival material can feed into fashion design. Last September, during London Fashion Week, the Syrian-born British designer Nabil Nayal , precisely because he had been inspired by the Elizabethan holdings there. He was also one of the judges for the second British Fashion Council x British Library Research Competition, which gives students from the BFC鈥檚 a chance to create a portfolio inspired by the BL鈥檚 collections.
This time, more than 60 students from across the UK attended a masterclass to learn about digital and physical access to national collections as well as issues such as copyright and the use of culturally sensitive imagery. Eight were shortlisted, and two joint winners 鈥 Victoria Lyons (Kingston School of Art) and Andy Froud (University of Brighton) 鈥 were announced at a ceremony on 22 February because the judges had 鈥渇ound it impossible to choose between Lyons鈥 colour-infused vision of nature rooted in her Northern Irish background, and the ethereal and elegant lines of Froud鈥檚 collection鈥.
So what was the route that led them from dusty archives to the glamour of the catwalk?
For her project, 鈥淭he Two Trees鈥, Lyons told me, she began with 鈥渢he work of William Henry Fox Talbot, the scientist, inventor and photography pioneer鈥, and particularly 鈥渢he first photographic recordings of plants, fragile yet so clear鈥. She also became fascinated by the 鈥渕eanings attached to plants, myths and stories told鈥.
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While she had previously 鈥渃oncentrated on knitwear and colour combinations鈥, Lyons went on, she has now begun 鈥渆xperimenting with digital printing, dye sublimation鈥 and even 鈥渢he possibilities of hand-painting my fabrics鈥. Her forthcoming collection is currently 鈥済oing in the direction of jackets, skirts and dresses, creating bold shoulders and the use of draped panels鈥.
Froud鈥檚 collection (pictured inset), he explained in his entry to the competition, was influenced by seemingly banal aspects of the library, 鈥渇rom the intricacy found in the various British Library stamps seen in the books themselves to the intimacy presented during the act of transferring personal belongings into clear plastic bags for those that wish to enter the reading rooms鈥. Reflecting on 鈥渢he marriage between intricacy and intimacy鈥 led him to think about lace-making. So he turned to an 1875 book by a Mrs Bury Palliser called A聽History of Lace and began to explore 鈥渃ontemporary printed textiles that draw inspiration from the woven intricacy that lace embodies, covering the body whilst highlighting the negative space between the fabric and the wearer鈥.
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As well as encouraging designers to access its resources, the British Library hopes to use the competition to hone its own services to creative researchers. A separate award was given by staff to Maz Smith (Edinburgh College of Art) for a collection based on her research into masculinity and mental health.
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Print headline:聽Archives weave dreams of catwalk creations
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